Wednesday, 18 April 2012

Skirt with a yoke..

Firstly, you will need to start by laying out all of your pattern pieces onto your fabric, which is folded in half on a straight grain.

Making sure that where the pattern pieces are cut on the fold they are placed on the fold of the material neatly, also keeping in mind the grain line on the patterns will have to be straight with the material.

Now you will need to pin the pattern pieces in place so that they dont slip or move when your trying to cut them out. Take a pair of sharp fabric scissors and slowly and carefully cut around your pattern pieces as neatly as you can.

Now you need to take the front piece of your skirt with the box pleat, and take the paper pattern off the back of it and make sure you mark the wrong side with a simple cross with some tailors chalk. You will need to take some pins and start to pin the darts togther which will show how and where the pleat is going to sit. Now you will need to press the fabric to hold where the folds will be.



Now you will need to get your front yoke, and pin it to where it fits into the top of the front box pleat, making sure your pinning right side to right side. Then sew it on with a 1.5 seam allowance. 

You will now need to turn the skirt to the right sside and do a topsticth all the way along where you have just sewn to as close to the fold as possible,

Then you need to turn it back round to the wrong side and overlock along the 1.5 seam allowance you just sewed.

Then you will need to do the exact same with the back pieces of the skirt.



You will now have the front and back pieces of your skirt. You will need to sew the right side to the right side togther along the sides with a 1.5 seam allowance, you will also need to put a centre zip using the step by step guide in to the skirt.




You then need to fold over the flare at 1.5 cm and then press it to keep it in place, now you need to sew along side it and turn the needle twhen you need to change the angle. You will also need to hem the outer edge of the kick pleat to stop it from moving.




Now you will need to sew on the facing. You will need to make sure they have interfacing on the back of them, so if you havent already done it then you will need to lay your facing out on the interfacing and cut around them, making sure the glue side of the interfacing is on the wrong side of your fabric facing pieces.

You will then need to press them on the iron so that the interfacing sticks.


Now your interfacing is on, you will need to sew the facings onto each other along the short sides with a 1.5 seam allowance and then overlock the seam allowance.


Make sure your skirt is inside out and then pin the facing on and sew it along the top of the skirt. You must make sure that the facing is in line with the skirt, or as accurately as it can be and the end of it should lie on one side of the zip.


You will now need to turn your skirt the right way round and make sure the tops of the zips are pushed out with either a pair of scissors or sharp object as much as they can be, or if it isnt pushing out properly then you can turn it inside out again and carefully cut away diagonally some of the seam allowance.



Now you will need to start on the hem, to do this you will need to fold up the hem of the skirt 1.5 and then topstitch it into place.


 

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