Firstly I started off patterning. I traced out a basic front back and sleeve block and then looked at my patterns and worked out how I would have to change them. My design shows the shoulder extending into a square shape and with the sleeve a right angle shape.
I decided to trace my patterns again and complete the changes on the second cut outs and stick them over the top of my original patterns so I could clearly see the changes.
Here it shows where I have drawn out the original pattern and then stuck the adaptions over the top.
Here is the front piece. I took out the dart at the top by slashing it and s[reading it open and adding it into the left side as shown. I also lifted the top by 1.5cm by slashing and spreading, and then lengthened the shoulder out by 3 cm and attached it back into the arm hole. I added a 1cm seam allowance all the way around.
I did the same with the back piece, but firstly I took out the dart at the top by rubbing it out and lengthening the shoulder by the same amount as the dart.I added a 1cm seam allowance all the way around except for the left long side which will be cut on the fold.
I then adapted the sleeve by making the sleeve head slightly higher by about 3cm at the top, and then taking the sleeve shorter up by about 10 cm making it a 3/4 length sleeve, but leaving about 3cm for a hem. I also made it slightly slimmer by taking an equal amount off each side and taking a diagonal line from the top of the sleeve to the new points at the bottom.
Then I cut them out of my calico. I started by taking my two front pieces and sewing in the darts.
Next, I sewed the two front pieces onto the back piece by the shoulder seams, making sure that I matched up the seams properly taking the 1cm seam allowance into account.
Then I sewed the two side seams together so that the basic body shape was put together just without the sleeves.
Now I had to start on the sleeves. Firstly I had to differentiate between the two which was the left and which was the right sleeve. Once I had done that, I sewed down the underarm seam on both sleeves with a 1cm seam allowance.
Now I had to pin my sleeves into the correct sleeve hole sides and ease it in so that it fit properly and all of the notches were lined up.
I then sewed the sleeve on removing each pin as I went and carefully made sure that the notches were matched up and the sleeve fit with a 1cm seam allowance. I did this on both sides.
With the sleeves sewn on, my toile was now looking like this;
Now I had to add the zip in. I am not going to use a concealed zip on my toile as I want some of the zip to be seen as a feature.
I open the zip and using a zipper foot, sewed the correct side of the zips to the centre front.
Now I had to add my hem onto the bottom of the garment. I folded up the bottom 1.5cm and pressed it, then I repeated rolling the hem up another 1.5cm. I then sewed across the bottom of the hem on the wrong side as cole up to the line as I could holding the hem securely into place.
I then did the same to the sleeves although this time I folded them up 1cm and then another 1cm so 2cm all together, pressed and sewed in place.
I completed all of these steps in my final fabric, which because of the thickness actually proved a lot harder than I thought it would be. I top stitched around the seams a lot to hold down the shape and the seams into place.
I had to make sure that on my final jacket, the inside was faced so that the sides and collar were neatly finished. I cut out my facing pattern using my original pattern, i cut out a shape to go around the collar, and both sides of the zip.
i literally sewed them onto the jacket right sides to right sides with a 1cm seam allowance.
I top stitched the seams to hold them down and also tacked the collar facing to keep it down. I haven't yet hemmed my jacket as I'm waiting to fit it to my model.
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