Toile Diary Blazer Jacket

I started off by firstly tracing off a standard jacket body block and standard sleeve block.

I then started to slightly alter my patterns. I left the darts on the back piece but changed the dart on the front pattern and closed it reopening it under the arm. I shortened the length of the front and back patterns slightly as the jacket is going with my trousers that angle out at each side therefore I didn't want the jacket to be too long and cover the trousers.

I adapted the front pattern piece to fit the collar in. I placed in the shape of how I wanted my collar to be.

I then added a 1cm seam allowance onto the front back and sleeve. I also shorted the sleeve slightly by taking off 3cm at each side at the bottom.

I then cut out the patterns out of calico.

I started firstly by sewing in all of the darts on the front pieces and back pieces.

I then sewed the 2 back pieces together to make it just the one back piece, I sewed them together with a 1cm seam allowance.

I then sewed the shoulder seams together with a 1cm seam allowance.

Then I sewed down the side seams so that my front and back pieces were sewn together.

Now I could start on the sleeves. I firstly sewed the sleeves together with a 1cm seam allowance.

I then pinned the sleeve heads into the sleeves holes on my garments and then sewed them both in with a 1cm seam allowance.

Now my basic jacket body was sewn together, I could concentrate on the collar. Firstly I had to pattern for it and I did this using my front pattern.

Here, you can see that I drew on where I wanted the collar to sit and how I wanted it to look on my pattern.

I cut the collar piece out, added a 1cm seam allowance and then cut it out twice on the fold.

Here, I have sewn along the outer line of the collar sewing the 2 collar pieces together with a 1cm seam allowance.

I then snipped around the seam allowance of the collar to add in extra ease and then added a retaining row.

I then attached the collar onto the jacket into place and sewed it on with a 1cm seam allowance. I will need to face my jacket and collar and also add a hem although I will wait to do this on my final garment in fittings week.

I did all of these steps in my final fabric and then once I had completed these steps, I went onto the facing and hemming of the jacket.

I started by cutting out a pattern for my facing by using the patterns for my jacket, I cut out a facing for the neck and collar.

I hemmed the jacket as well and made sure that the hem was exactly 3cm.

Here it a close up of the collar as well, I used the material I used for my small cropped jacket on the collar as I wanted it to stand out and be different,