Skirt with a yoke..

Firstly, you will need to start by laying out all of your pattern pieces onto your fabric, which is folded in half on a straight grain.

Making sure that where the pattern pieces are cut on the fold they are placed on the fold of the material neatly, also keeping in mind the grain line on the patterns will have to be straight with the material.

Now you will need to pin the pattern pieces in place so that they dont slip or move when your trying to cut them out. Take a pair of sharp fabric scissors and slowly and carefully cut around your pattern pieces as neatly as you can.

Now you need to take the front piece of your skirt with the box pleat, and take the paper pattern off the back of it and make sure you mark the wrong side with a simple cross with some tailors chalk. You will need to take some pins and start to pin the darts togther which will show how and where the pleat is going to sit. Now you will need to press the fabric to hold where the folds will be.

Now you will need to get your front yoke, and pin it to where it fits into the top of the front box pleat, making sure your pinning right side to right side. Then sew it on with a 1.5 seam allowance. 

You will now need to turn the skirt to the right sside and do a topsticth all the way along where you have just sewn to as close to the fold as possible,

Then you need to turn it back round to the wrong side and overlock along the 1.5 seam allowance you just sewed.

Then you will need to do the exact same with the back pieces of the skirt.

You will now have the front and back pieces of your skirt. You will need to sew the right side to the right side togther along the sides with a 1.5 seam allowance, you will also need to put a centre zip using the step by step guide in to the skirt.

You then need to fold over the flare at 1.5 cm and then press it to keep it in place, now you need to sew along side it and turn the needle twhen you need to change the angle. You will also need to hem the outer edge of the kick pleat to stop it from moving.

Now you will need to sew on the facing. You will need to make sure they have interfacing on the back of them, so if you havent already done it then you will need to lay your facing out on the interfacing and cut around them, making sure the glue side of the interfacing is on the wrong side of your fabric facing pieces.

You will then need to press them on the iron so that the interfacing sticks.

Now your interfacing is on, you will need to sew the facings onto each other along the short sides with a 1.5 seam allowance and then overlock the seam allowance.

Make sure your skirt is inside out and then pin the facing on and sew it along the top of the skirt. You must make sure that the facing is in line with the skirt, or as accurately as it can be and the end of it should lie on one side of the zip.

You will now need to turn your skirt the right way round and make sure the tops of the zips are pushed out with either a pair of scissors or sharp object as much as they can be, or if it isnt pushing out properly then you can turn it inside out again and carefully cut away diagonally some of the seam allowance.

Now you will need to start on the hem, to do this you will need to fold up the hem of the skirt 1.5 and then topstitch it into place.

 

colour page pictures

Progress over easter..

Over the Easter holidays, I have started to go more into depth into my research of Religion and Culture. I have started by researching more into different types of religion and culutre, and I have looked into the different foods eaten and clothing worn and also the more sinister side of religion, which interested me a lot.

I now want to develop my designs a lot more. I liked a fair few of my earlier designs so nopw i want to combine them with my newer research to try to draw up some stronger designs. The darker side of religion interested me, as a lot of people in a religious family or who have been born into certain religions have to endure some awful experiences and are more or less trapped within their culture. I want to encorporate this into my final design to show that some religions condone barbaric acts and use their religion as an excuse.

For example, honor killings. This is where a member of the family has shamed the rest of the family somehow by either refusing to marry a person that their family has chosen them to marry, breaking a rule of their religion, hanging around with or dating people the family dont agree with and lots of other things, so either the family kill, or arrange for someone else to kill that member of their family. This is acceptable in some religions and this is the side of religion that is evil and restrcting.

I also want to show restriction in my final garment as i think a lot of religious clothing is very restricting. Some people in the islamic religion where full draping material covering their whole body except for their eyes, whatever the weather or where ever they are all day everyday, which is highly restricting and trapping.

Colours of religion though are very bright, like the architecture and foods, and also some cultural clothing has very birhgt and loud colours, so somehwere pn my dress I want to add either a bright strip of fabric or section of my garment to show the differences and contrasts within different religions and cultures.

I am now going to do further research in my sketch book and complete another mood board so that i have 2 main mood boards to refeer to.

 

Final Brief..

So we have had our final brief given to us and as its the easter holidays I've started my research early to get a good head start! Ive rfesearched into 5 different collections of 5 different designers who tend to use visionary art and are inspired by all different kinds of things which is really interesting to look into. I am also going to start making me thread of religion and culture a lot more in depth and informative to ensure i can come up with an even stronger final design.

My favorite collection from the ones I have researched has definitely got to be his spring 2007 collection. It was really creative and unique and I think it will definitely be a collection to remember, I admire Gareth Pugh as he seems to be a designer who isn't afraid to be himself or be different and although his collections get mixed reviews he still goes on to create distinctive garments.

Completed design brief!

So I have finally completed my design brief, it has all been handed in this week and I can truly say that I really enjoyed the final part of the brief, where we were designing our own garments using our mood boards and sketchbooks. It was really fun and enjoyable to create 10 strong designs and I now feel a lot more confident about continuing onto our next brief!

Will update with pictures of sketchbook asap.

Update on Design Brief

This week I am designing my 10 garment designs, these should reflect on all of my equality and diversity research and mood board. I decided last week that the main topic I will be exploring into my garment designs will be Culture and Religion. I chose to look into this topic as when looking through my research in my sketchbook, I concluded that I had done a lot of thorough research on culture and religion and my shape development ideas had a lot of potential to create a relevant garment.

I set out my mood board and research in front of me and started to design. You have to take into account all the different kinds of shapes and textures used in your mood board and research, although still making sure it relates to your chosen topic, mine being culture and religion, so I had to think long and hard about what designs I was going to draw out.

Sop far I have completed two front and back designs, I have annotated them as well to explain where I got my inspiration from and today I am going to carry on designing.

darts

Step by step guide on how to move a dart in a close fitting bodice.

Firstly, you will need to trace around the block onto a piece of paper, making sure you add in the notches and markings for all darts.

I had to move my dart to the under arm, so in order to do this I had to draw a new dart line under the arm.

The next step is to cut up the new dart.

The next step is to close the original dart by folding it together and taping it down.

You should now notice that your new dart and the new line you drew and cut down will have opened up to the same width as the rest of the other darts, hence creating a brand new dart where you wanted it to be.

You will now need to cut your pattern out in fabric making sure you add the notches to the darts and marking with tailors chalk both points of the darts.

The darts will then need to be sewn in the bodice and the results are as seen in my photo.