manufacture plan

Manufacture Plan.

Close darts on front and back of toile dress,

Sew shoulders of front and back piece of dress together with a 1cm seam allowance, over lock.

Sew one of the neck pieces onto the neck of the front dress piece with a 1cm seam allowance, over lock.

Sew front and back dress pieces together with a 1cm seam allowance and over lock.

Ease sleeves into sleeve head and sew on each one with a 1cm seam allowance and over lock.

Insert invisible zip starting from the centre top neck.

Sew underarm seam going through to the side seam.

Take sleeves in by 5cm, take back darts in by 2 cm.

Draw designs lines on toile to match the ones of drawn out design and cut out pieces of dress and re pattern.

Cut out new patterns out of fabric and number accordingly for when you sew back together.

Sew first arm piece together labelled 1, make sure arrows at top of neck and notches meet, 1cm seam allowance and over lock.

Sew both piece 2’s together with a 1cm seam allowance, over lock.

Sew piece 2 to piece 1 with a 1cm seam allowance and over lock.

Sew both piece 3’s together with a 1cm seam allowance, over lock,

Sew both piece 4’s together with a 1cm seam allowance, over lock,

Attach right bum side to dress making sure the notches match,

Take top, middle and bottom pieces of bottom part of dress and attach in order with a 1cm seam allowance and over lock.

Sew bottom half of dress to top half of dress making sure notches match with a 1cm seam allowance, over locking but leaving centre back of dress open.

Place in invisible zip where dress attaches at back of open dress.

When sewing the centre back up with a 1cm seam allowance, leave a 20 inch split in bottom of dress.

Bias bind open back, wrist areas of sleeve and around the neck piece. Hand tack bias binding down.

Hem dress 2cm, hand tack into place.

Add 3 hook and eyes onto neck piece vertically.

Add 3 fabric hooks onto each side of open back to attach bra strap hooks onto, (one set at shoulders, one set at waist, one set at hips), make sure hooks don’t fray.

start of evaluation

In depth Evaluation on final brief.

I am now going to write and evaluation on my final briefs. There were two briefs running alongside each other, brief number 7 and brief number 117. In these briefs we were required to act as a fashion designer wishing to develop our own collection, we were asked to experiment, source and evaluate every different outcome produced. We will be developing and manufacturing a garment which should have been inspired by a certain topic.

Our topic was equality and diversity. We thoroughly researched into all the different headings within e&d, which was very interesting indeed as it made you become more aware of all the different kinds of issues relating to e&d and how they affect everyday life. I researched into most of the different categories but I decided to focus on religion for my final dress design. After plenty of research deeper into my chosen topic, I decided that I wanted to focus more on the bad side of religion and how a lot of religious people are trapped and imprisoned in a religion they either don’t feel relaxed or happy within their own lives or are being abused or bullied or forced to do things that they are not comfortable with. I looked a lot into honour killings and forced marriages which are sadly frequent within certain religions. Girls are forced to marry people they have never even met in their lives, their cousins or a son of a family friend or anybody, the majority of the time it is their parents’ choice and it will mostly reflect each family well.

Children as young as 5 years old have been forced into a marriage they are not comfortable with, and the majority of the time they are then shipped off to a foreign country to live with their new husband on their own. They can be abused mentally, sexually, any way possible by their new husband and there is no way out as divorce is very highly frowned upon in most religions and they cannot escape their prison. Only when they do finally find a way to run off or divorce their husband, it puts extreme shame on each of the families and they would be the talk of the town and no one likes to be spoken badly of?

Sometimes, it could be any member or members of the family, they will arrange for which ever person has ran away from the marriage, to be killed. Whether it’s by a family member or someone else, whether it’s in front of an audience or not, it does happen and so many people have gotten away with it as well.

I wanted my dress to show restriction, control and restraint, showing that the person wearing the dress is uncomfortable and can’t escape it. This is how I was inspired to create a restricting tight fitting dress. I also wanted it to have a look of fabrics being wrapped around the person, holding them in tight so that they cannot get away. This is where I came up with the ‘wrap around’ effect and creating all kinds of different design seams all around my whole dress. I also wanted to create a backless piece, with the zip to the dress travelling upwards towards the top of the neck, going through a black cross which is also symbolizing religion and the clash between Christianity and Islam. Although the cross idea didn’t work out, which I will explain why later. But I was very pleased with my design and how I had come up with my dress and all the details on it and I was feeling confident that it reflected my final topic well.

We learnt a lot about the critical path and time management plans which was very interesting indeed. The critical path is used often in all sorts of industries. It’s extremely important as it provides companies with particular information and reminders on key tasks that are necessary to the project. If companies apply critical paths, they can also use it to refer to which certain tasks are more important than other and need to be completed first second or last, it gives an order and helps everything to run smoothly which in a demanding business can be very helpful and supportive indeed.

We also researched a lot into time management plans. Time management plans are a lot like critical paths except they help you to be able to manage your time properly and get certain tasks done for a certain deadline, helping the overall project run smoothly. It will help you to prioritize certain tasks and work and once you no where you are up to in a busy work schedule, you won’t be getting stressed or run behind deadlines. Also if you are providing for another company or business, it can help you to make sure you deliver what’s promised and to an excellent standard as well making sure you do not disappoint.

It can also help people to keep things into context, and also feel a lot better and more organized about their lives, if they have a plan and manage their time combined with their work, then they can just get on with what’s on the list and deliver to a good standard too. Knowing what to work on when, and how much time you have to complete the task means more quality work.

We also did a lot of research into different designers and how they portray their thoughts and ideas into their designs. One of my favourite designers was Alexander McQueen. I loved his collection highland rape, as I thought the clever title and the way he represented his models to reflect to the real topic behind the appearances was so inspiring. I really admired the way his real meaning was so subtle but also so ‘in your face’ and obvious. I applied this to my work as I tried to design a dress that wasn’t necessarily screaming out what I wanted it to say, but for people to maybe look at it and think to themselves that my dress has a deeper meaning, that may not be entirely obvious through the design but through the overall performance my meaning will start to creep out to the audience.

In my dress, I created a very restricting pattern as I wanted the dress to look to the audience that it was too tight and uncomfortable, therefore portraying the way some people can be trapped within a religion, so I tried to be more clever about the overall meaning of my dress, and not make my topic totally blatant to the audience, but so people would think about my dress more deeply and look at exactly how it is made to gain better understanding of it.

When reflecting on both of my units I would say that the creative thinking technique I used mostly was;

My target audience for my design was ready to wear.

evaluation help

CHECK LIST OF POINTS TO INCLUDE FOR YOUR EVALUATION

Introduction

·         What was the scenario / assignment descriptive?

Paragraph 1

·         How important is a critical path & time management plan? Give evidence to back up your answer.

Paragraph 2

·         From researching designers, who’s creative thinking techniques influenced you the most to help you move forward with your research?

·         How did you apply this way of thinking to your work?

·         When reflecting on your two units which creative thinking technique did you mostly use from the list you created in class?

Paragraph 3

·         Who was the target audience for your design?

·         Briefly describe your customer

·         How did your choice of colour pallet meet their needs?

·         How did your choice of design meet their needs?

·         How did the fabric choice meet their needs?

·         How did the choice of hems, seams, details on the final garment meet their needs?

·         Was the quality of the finished garment and fit appropriate for your target audience?

·         If it didn’t, then how could you have changed the above to meet their needs?

Paragraph 4

·         When researching fabrics why was it so important to know the width of the fabric?

·         Why was it important to know the availability?

·         Why was it so important to know the price per meter?

Paragraph 5

·         What did you learn from reflecting your thoughts and documenting your progress in your toile diary? How did this help you?

Paragraph 6

·         How did the A2 design board & illustration reflect your design & influences?

Paragraph 7

·         Did you upload weekly blog updates on work carried out & other projects/influences?

·         What role do you think a strong creative blog plays in the bigger picture?

·         Could you do more with your blog?

Paragraph 8 conclusion

·         What were your strengths/ what did you do really well?

·         What were your weaknesses/ What do you need to work at to improve?

·         Reflecting on the past academic year how do you feel you have performed?

·         What is the one thing you will approach differently going into the 2^nd year?

Shirt patterning..

Firstlt, we traced around the shirt block.

Back yoke;

This is a picture of the back yoke and it was already in the block. You will find a yoke at the top of any garment.

This is a picture of the pleat in the centre back, it is extending from the yoke line to the centre back.

This is a picture of the pattern for the cuff, however it was a little big, it was provided in the form of a block.

This is a picture of the button stand, it is self faced.

And this is what it looks like when the facing is folded under, extra has been added past the centre front, to allow for a button stand,

To create the bishop sleeve, i divided the sleeve up into 6 sections, slashed and spread the lines, the head of the sleeve stays the same but there is more flare at the bottom to create the bishops sleeve,

Collar and collar stand;

To create the block for the collar and collar stand, we did this as a group following tutor instructions, we then traced off the collar and the collar stand, we slashed and spread the back of the collar so that it would fit over the collar stand, to the collar stand, we slashed and overlapped the top of it, so that it fits properly into the neck,

Pocket;

To create the pocket, we drew a square around our hands to get the correct size and shape of the pocket.

Maxi skirt patterning..

Firstly I drew around the skirt block front and back. We then measured ourselves from our waist to the floor and then extended the length of our skirt to that length. To add the extra flare to our maxi skirts, we drew 2 vertical lines on the back piece from the bottom of both darts to the hem,

 for the front we repeated the process but for one dart, but to gain the toher line, we measured from the dart to the centre front and found the halfway point and drew a vertical line, we then traced the front and back off separately, and slashed up the vertical lines leaving them slightly attached still at the top, the automatically spreads out the bottom of the pattern.

This is the final pattern above with a seam allowance added. The front and back are both cut on the fold. We used a bias grain line as we wanted the skirt to flute at the hem, it also means that the skirt will fit where it touches,

Waistband;
to pattern for the waistband, we measured the waist minus the seam allowance, we added on extra for the overlap of the button hole as well,

Skirt with yoke patterning..

Firstly I drew around the basic skirt block.

Then to add the slight flare onto the front of the skirt, we extended a line from the hip to the hem, we then extended the width of the hem on the side by 2.5cm, we did the exact same to the back skirt as seen int he above picture.

We also extended a linefrom the centre back waist to the hem and extended the hem line towards the centre back  by 1cm, we did this for more ease in the skirt, as seen in the above picture.

Yoke;

A yoke is a horizontal line that goes across the top of any garment, in this case it was going across the top of my skirt. We placed ours at the bottom of the longest dart, as seen in the pictures above. I traced off the yoke from my first draft and then closed up the darts,

I then added a 1.5 seam allowance and created my final pattern for the yoke.

Box pleat;

To get the box pleat, we drew a vertical line from the yoke line to the hem, approximately 5cm from the centre front line. We then slashed up the box pleat line and then inserted a piece of paper 10cm in width which gave us half of our box pleat;

Kick pleat;

To get the kick pleat we extended the width of the hem at the centre back by approximately 5cm, we then drew a parallel vertical line to the centre back, and we finished it off with a 45 degree angle as seen in the picture above.

Waist facings;

A facing is used to neaten up raw edges, we had facings at the top of our skirt, we drew a 5cm horizontal line from the waist on the front and back, we then traced it off to create a final pattern and added a seam aloowance of 1.5cm.